Christian Dior collaborates with the ghost of Christian Dior

Very keen on collaborations, Kim Jones is likely to collaborate with a contemporary painter like Peter Doig for one season, then to dialogue with Jack Kerouac’s heirs to summon the atmosphere of the Beat Generation for another season . Its collections, although they are generally marked by a continuity in the silhouette and the materials used, arouse a certain suspense in the days which precede the fashion show. Kim Jones likes to hint at it on Instagram and fashion aficionados are always wondering who this time around will be her muse or co-conspirator. Before the parade, we thus saw photos showing gray gloves and lacquered black shoes covered with a fine rhinestone network. It felt like a celebration of fashion itself. Who dared to embark on such an adventure?

This year marks the 22th anniversary of the fashion house founded by Christian Dior. For the fall 2022, Kim Jones has therefore decided to create her solo collection, well, more or less: “Kim Jones is embarking on the ultimate collaboration”, announces a press release, “with Christian Dior himself”. As if Kim Jones was dancing with the ghost of the Grand Master, in a spiritual collaboration. Christian Dior by Christian Dior.

“I wanted to look at the archives, to rediscover the purity of the beginnings of the house, its original impetus”, confided Kim Jones to GQ. “We looked at the first collections by looking at the architecture of the garment, in order to translate the elements that interested us, almost instinctively, into a contemporary masculine style, keeping the joie de vivre that is at the heart of the Christian Dior clothing.”

Courtesy of Dior.Courtesy of Dior.Dior is such a mythical name in the fashion world that it can be hard to know what it really means. The couturier’s ideas are so powerful, so central to our understanding of luxury and craftsmanship that “Dior” has almost become synonymous with fashion itself. The couturier was a master of silhouette, adornment, spectacle and fantasy. If you close your eyes and think “couture”, you will probably see a sequined sleeveless dress with a fitted waist and a swing skirt – one of the couturier’s signature creations.

Courtesy of Dior.Courtesy of Dior. So Kim Jones cites some of Dior’s most famous pieces. We find the famous bar jacket, the “eight” silhouette, with a slim waist and padded hips, reinterpreted for men in a softened and enveloping version. Gray, which Dior loved so much, the color of the Parisian sky on a rainy day, forms the basis of the palette of this collection. The collection is presented in a decor that reproduces the Alexandre-III bridge, a metaphor for Kim Jones, which also recalls the decor of several photos by Richard Avedon which helped to consolidate the image of the house. Many of the Parisian couturier’s passions are present: the rose, the cane print which was inspired by Parisian caned chairs and the scent of lily of the valley, which he loved so much. Even the collaboration with Birkenstock is a nod to Dior, a reinterpretation of the gardening shoes he wore to take care of his flowers.

Courtesy of Dior.Dior Homme, winter 2022 2023,menswear, ready to wearYANNIS VLAMOSL’ Kim Jones’ approach is unique in that he is interested in the Christian Dior man and his personality, beyond a name that has become legendary. He was a great reader, a gardener and a follower of mysticism. He was also a romantic, a gourmet of textures, volumes and ideas. The great show orchestrated by Jones and the overwhelming luxury of the brand become human. As the fashion industry continues to orchestrate remakes with a contemporary twist, Kim Jones likes to find something enduring and classic in Dior that goes beyond the craftsmanship of designers who have come after her. The Brit is also a king of cool, and demonstrated it by collaborating with Stüssy and putting the young artist Amoako Boafo in the spotlight. But his insistence on approaching Dior as a historical figure rather than a system of references to be revived is perhaps his most modern idea to date.

Through GQ US